ChangLa was the second big pass (5000m+) that challenged me. It was a slightly longer uphill than the one at Khardung La. I started from a slightly higher altitude (Karu base) as compared to Leh market and the slopes were also more challenging on this route. Aware of the old controversies over the altitude of KhardungLa, I had measured them with my GPS. So did I repeat the procedure at ChangLa, resulting in ChangLa being the heighest Indian motorable road and fortunately with lesser traffic(due to lack of the title KhardungLa possesses) and better roads(so far all comparisions made with KhardungLa). I was expected to be acclimatised and so was I but honestly, the head still ached terribly. The slightly uncomfortable bumps seemed dangerous. It wasn't as bad as KhardungLa where I had to stop a lot more just to stay safe but here too I wanted to cross over early. No matter how fast I coevered the initial 75% of the mammoth uphill, the latter 25% (last 12kms) took more time than the earlier. And if one digs into details, it so happens that last 3 kms took over an hour! It kept getting tough as the roads further got bumpy. It is on these kinds of upslopes that the rear tyre skids and instinctly I tried to pedal harder.
Reaching the top felt like an achievement. The army offers free tea to all the tourists and takes good care. I was the special guest at that moment being welcomed, cheered, encouraged and well fed :)
The high passes usually have a tough downhill around 10kms on either sides(an exeption of TanglangLa- see future posts). This was no exception. The melting ice had made the road into pebbled rivers and the freezing fingers had to be kept alive.There after it was a neat speed and scenic ride till Tangtse. The sense of complete freedom was relished the most in eastern Ladakh though a man is never completely free. I had the borders and military restrictions at many places for my own good. The place had more of endangered species of animals than the least concern homo sapiens.
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| The heighest road under my consideration: Great Job BRO |
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| Yaks feasting on whatever little icy grass they can manage |
